EV tires are meant to optimize for lower rolling resistance over anything else to reduce energy usage and ideally road noise. Lasting longer or having more grip is a secondary concern.

You can get tires that last much longer, but then you'll have to lose out on at least some of the other factors: efficiency, noise and grip.

Heavier vehicles do wear tires quicker though. Tires on a heavier vehicle that can easily spin the tires from a standstill every single time moreso.

And batteries are still heavy as fuck.

No, that's the base model on that website, the 5 N was listed at 3000€ a year if you clicked on that.

But the same website lists my old car (Diesel) for ~1400 a year and I paid 600 a year in Estonia. It's also full coverage + liability, which is only necessary for new cars, you can drop that cost when you've paid it off, liability is cheap

Unfortunately that also tells you that in 4 years when you should sell it (before the 8 year powertrain and battery warranty is over), it will have depreciated a ton more.

I suspect the depreciation rate drops off when that warranty is over, so if you're not afraid of the battery going, just get one that's already out of warranty anyway

My EV is much lighter that any SUV or half ton I see and in 4 years, I haven't spun my tires once. But keep slurring EVs tho, you fit right in with the hundreds of other tries I've seen over the last 10 years.

BMW 5 series diesel 1935 KG empty, i5 2235 KG empty.

Mercedes GLC diesel 2115 KG empty, EQC 2545 KG empty (Admittedly a tiny bit longer than the GLC, otherwise based on the same platform, same width)

Show me which EV with a properly sized battery is lighter than its equivalent ICE counterpart.

I haven't spun my tires once.

Means you aren't driving, you're commuting.

Driving and commuting are the same, you're a hazard, and you're trying making a big deal out of a nothing burger.

No, I just enjoy driving. If you don't, take the bus instead of paying for an expensive car

"every use case" - I'm not quite sure what that means. I have no case in mind where a combustion engine is preferable, unless the case is so unique that a dedicated EV or charging network is too expensive because volume is still too low.

I have never bought a vehicle for more than $5k. Once used EV’s are down to that price - and even 10yo Chevy Bolts with nearly-dead batteries are $20k+ up here in Canada - I might reconsider.

Until then, I would much rather plan to do an electric conversion on something simple, like a 2000 Mazda 626 or a Type 2 VW Jetta.

Because my other objection to anything made after 2006 comes down to one of more of three critical nasties:

• Subscriptions. Literally paying a second time for shit that already came with the vehicle.
• Repairability and DRM. If I can’t fix most things outside of the engine and transmission with a basic set of hand tools, it’s a hard no for me. And some cars are already implementing DRM, forcing things like brake replacements to be done at dealerships.
• Privacy. Almost all cars after 2006 and most with OnStar before that time are privacy nightmares. If it phones home with my personal data or stores it anywhere on the vehicle, I need to be able to bodily rip that functionality out of the vehicle without crippling it in any way.

How does one avoid DRM and maintain repairability using common tools outside of the power storage and motors? As in, not requiring a $1,000,000 piece of software with a $6,000/mo subscription to the mothership just to authorize work on the brakes? Yes, Hyundai is already forcing this on customers.

How does one avoid subscriptions, to ensure everything that came with the vehicle works 100% without having to pay a single cent extra? Because if it came with the vehicle I had damn well have full and unrestricted access to use it.

And most importantly, how does one avoid being tracked and recorded, such that absolutely nothing about you, your driving habits, or what happens around your vehicle is uploaded to the manufacturer or even stored on the vehicle, to be recovered at a later date without your express consent, invariably to be used against you?

I’ll gladly buy the first post-1930s EV that has none of these issues.

I fully expect to die of old age before that happens.

It's all down to driving style. My first set of tires is on 105k km and still has over 5mm thread left.

Europe is also pretty good for public transit, walking and biking, is it not?

I bought a $37,000 (AUD) EV and its fantastic.
This isnt an outlier, a LOT of BEV's and Hybrids are sub $60k here in australia.

Costs me between $0-34 to charge per week.
$0 if i charge on weekends with solar, $34 if i charge only during peak hours, or somewhere in between if i charge off-peak (during rhe night or middle of the day).

The tax rebates were for loans, not purchases. And they are being rolled back because they were to incentivise EV uptake, which is no longer neccessary.

Depends on the location.
For example I, coming from Poland find PT in Dublin/Ireland pathetic but all US/Canada immigrants love it and say it extremely better than anything they had back in North America.

Wtf is up with insurance in Estonia? I did got some quotes in the £2000 range (and one at £6000) but there are literally hundreds of insurance companies in the UK

Regardless of driving habits, they are heavier duty because EVs are heavier, so they are slightly more expensive.
All things equal they shouldnt wear any quicker than a non-ev tyre, just a little more to replace.

Yeah I’m pretty jealous, it’s why so many of us are excited about the Slate truck in the US.

No not really, the tires I buy are for passenger cars of all types, and I only change tires after a season is over. Over the lifetime of the car, it happens to be the same number of tires changes.